Chevalier Montrachet, Bouchard Père et Fils 2014

Lovely, smoky, dense and long, the ‘classic’ Bouchard Chevalier is almost ridiculously good, boasting pronounced aromas that range from green apple and lime peel to mango and melon. The texture is silky and dynamically fresh, stretching the wine to an impressively long finish. In addition to its vines called Chevalier La Cabotte, the house owns more than 2.3ha at the southern end of the appellation spread over four terraces, each contributing a different character, from citrus and saline minerality to almost honeyed tropical fruit – an astounding wine. Frédéric Weber, technical director for Bouchard Père et Fils, says: ‘The weather went off the rails from the beginning of summer, and conditions were very humid in July and August. However, good weather returned in early September and once again saved the harvest. It was truly the Indian summer that saved this vintage, with sunny days and cool nights that allowed for good ripeness while maintaining acidity, especially for the whites. Harvest began on 14 September for Chardonnay, which was very healthy, [presenting] airy bunches with small grapes. There was a nice balance, with potential alcohol between 12.6%-13.2%, a pH of 3.1, 5g/L of malic acid on average and 7-8g/L of tartaric acid. We picked by hand and destemmed before pressing to avoid too much contact with the stems. The must was settled for 18 hours. Fermentation started in stainless steel vats at a low temperature (17°C), and then we barreled down with the lees. I rolled the barrels three times during the winter and during malolactic fermentation, which ended in June. We bottled in February 2016, thus 15 months in oak barrels, with 20% new barrels. For me, this is a great white vintage, but one that is a little reserved today, and I think we should still wait for them to open up before drinking.’ (Drink between 2030-2070)

(bottled under the Diam brand of composite cork). Maturing aromas include those of lemon rind, matchstick, spice, pear and a floral top note. The delicious, round and surprisingly supple middle weight flavors exude evident minerality on the strikingly long, complex and impeccably well-balanced finale. This is stunning and while it's drinking well now, I would suggest another few years of keeping given the large format. But with that said, it's not so backward that it would be infanticide to open one. In short, this is excellent. (Drink starting 2029)

The 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an enticing, subtle bouquet, timid at first but soon finding its voice and developing attractive citrus peel, yuzu and tinned apricot scents all struck through with tangible mineral tones. The palate is well balanced with impressive weight in the mouth. It never lets everything go, preferring to remain linear and maintain precision, gently fanning out towards the finish with a pinch of white pepper and vibrant citrus fruit. This is a very well-crafted Chevalier-Montrachet that is imbued with a sense of joie-de-vivre.

This is a like a wave that rolls over your palate with dried apples, stones, minerals and hints of caramel. So dense and beautiful. Flavorful, intense yet boasting a pinpoint palate. Savory, decadent finish. Drinkable now but built for the long term.