Chasse Spleen 1990

A bottle of 1990 Chasse-Spleen is ordered off the list and served blind to fellow diners who rattled through every Bordeaux appellations except for Moulis! Tut-tut. Because this is a fantastic Chasse-Spleen that demonstrates what Moulis can do in a great vintage. The nose is complex with scents of dark berry fruit, freshly tilled earth, morels and tobacco. The warmth of the vintage is held back by the austerity of the Cabernet Sauvignon and reaching an irresistible equilibrium. The palate is beautifully balanced with svelte tannin. Not a plump Chasse-Spleen by any means, but rounded and caressing in the mouth. Everything just feels in its right place. It nonchalantly fans out towards the finish with subtle sous-bois notes and a hint of pencil lead on the aftertaste. I am reminded of the 1947 Chasse-Spleen I enjoyed earlier this year, from a similarly hot summer, so perhaps this 1990 is a modern-day equivalent? Just wonderful. Tasted at The Arches restaurant in London. 2019 - 2030

As I wrote about a bit in my En Primeur coverage of the region several years ago, the refinement of the winemaking at Château Chasse-Spleen has ticked up notably in the last decade or so, and back in the era of the 1980s and early 1990s, there was not quite as much breed to be found in the wines from this lovely property as is the case today. However, they were still very good back in the day and this 1990 is a fine example of its vintage, offering up a lovely bouquet of roasted cassis and black cherries, cigar ash, gravelly soil tones, a touch of fresh herbs, a dollop of toasty oak and a bit of gentle tariness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, fullbodied and quite suave on the attack, with a good core, melting tannins and fine length and grip on the beautifully resolved finish. A touch more rustic than the wines from the property today, the 1990 is still very, very satisfying. 2017-2040+.