Scharzhofberger Kabinett, Von Hovel 2017

Max von Kunow took over direction of the well-known von Hövel estate from his father in 2010, after having done stages at several other wineries in Germany and Burgundy, as well as consulting for winegrowers in Luxembourg. He has converted the family’s vineyard holdings to organic farming, which includes an impressive 2.8 hectares of vines in the Scharzhofberg. His 2017 Scharzhofberger Kabinett is quite good, offering up a bright and complex nose of green apple, lime peel, a fine base of slate minerality, a hint of wild yeasts and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, medium-bodied and nicely filigreed, with lovely complex, zesty acids and a long, well-balanced and bouncy finish. Good juice and quite classically proportioned. (Drink between 2018-2040)