El Reventon, Comando G 2022

The 2022 El Reventón, from the El Reventón vineyard in Cebrerosas, is the last vintage of this wine from Comando G. Starting in 2023, it is produced by the new El Reventón project from the Catena team. It's intense, a condition of the year, with more stuffing but no excess ripeness or heat. It's the only cru on slate soils, and it has super tasty flavors, umami, almost salty and with powdery tannins. The 15% alcohol on the label is perfectly disguised and unnoticeable, and it comes through as surprisingly fresh for the weather. This is a triumph over the conditions of the year. It should develop nicely in bottle, developing more finesse. 1,782 bottles and 50 magnums were filled in in June 2024. All the 2022s were given a longer élevage. Drink: 2024-2035

I’m often struck by El Reventon’s citrusy nose, which involves grilled oranges and grapefruit. It is round but also minerally, with beautifully chalky, fine-grained tannins that melt through the palate. A light white-pepper touch adds a nice funky element to the fruit, with a touch of agave and a beautiful finish that runs true. Drink now or hold.