Fonsalette Rouge, Château Rayas 2011

The elegant 2011 Côtes-du-Rhône Réservé is ready for business. Tobacco, melted licorice, strawberry compote, white pepper and herb garden notes are all pushed forward. Medium- to full-bodied and framed by silky tannins, the 2011 offers good concentration and culminates in a distinctively savory finish. (Drink between 2024-2029)

On opening: a touch of orange or brick to the colour now. Gorgeous nose – the smoky, gamey Syrah to the fore, with raspberry, strawberry and wood smoke. Medium- to full-bodied style, with more smoke and red fruit. Lovely tannic feel here, well balanced, with good acidity and some marked bitter notes. Long finish, with fairly raised alcohol. A good time to drink this. Not perhaps as generous or harmonious as some vintages, but very good. After 36 hours: it's explosively aromatic, so smoky and electric. Complex and delicious. Strawberries and bitter orange; it's more harmonious today. Alcohol still a touch raised, but so long. Sandy terroir.