Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione, Fontodi 2019

This iconic wine has all new energy, as it is now part of an exciting set of potential Gran Selezione wines made at Fontodi. Two new portfolio additions (Pastrolo from cool climate Lamole and Terrazze San Leonlino from Panzano) help to give greater context to the organic 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo. This wine of course benefits from many years of experience, and the Vigna del Sorbo identity is well established. But soil geeks will absolutely enjoy comparing Vigna del Sorbo from schistous galestro soils to the limestone alternative found in Terrazze San Leonlino. I tend to lean toward Vigna del Sorbo thanks to those etched mineral notes of pencil shaving and iron ore that I find so appealing. Those dusty notes are amply rounded off by sweet cherry fruit, plum and spice. Rising alcohol can be a problem in sun-drenched Panzano, and the winey team is leaving taller growth on the vines in the summer to cast shade and taking other active measures to combat this issue. Drink 2024-2050.

The 2019 demonstrates all the wild, penetrating characteristics of this site but it comes into harmony quickly, revealing its balance and precision. Wood-driven top notes of smoke and vanilla meld into pressed violets, rosemary and liquorice. Luscious red cherry and dark plum flesh are wrapped in long, layered chalky tannins. Across the palate there's an energetic beam of unwavering acidity, giving the wine a linear feel. The finish reverberates with fennel and crushed stone.

Complex aromas of dried flowers, orange peel and white pepper, together with lots of cherries. Full-bodied, but linear and very fine in the center-palate, with a linear flow of citrusy acidity. From organically grown grapes. This will age beautifully, but it’s already impressive to taste.