Earth Smoke Pinot Noir, Pyramid Valley Vineyards 2022

Having made no Earth Smoke in 2021 due to spring frosts and cool flowering ravaging the yield, it's a welcome return in 2022. Translucent, pure and delicately textured, this Pinot Noir shows a fine hand and the confidence to be hands off. The wine is calm; in the mouth, it gives the impression that a hush has descended. It is attractively scented - full of dried herbs, cherry, festive spice, violets and a hint of smoke. There's plentiful concentration without weight. The tannins are pliant, providing the finest coating for your palate. Perhaps not as long as it could be, but I'm really nitpicking here. 2025-2033

A fascinating combination of smoke, matchstick, caramel and dried strawberries on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied with fine tannins that stretch the length of the wine. Juicy and savory. Delicious and tense. Drink after 2027 but already so beautiful. Screw cap.

This has a powerful nose, a little reductive and smoky, with exotic spices and dark fruits – black cherry, five spice, dark cocoa, earth and bay leaf, orange peel – and red fruited highlights. A sweet-fruited supple core, very plush and velvety, and quite four-square structured tannins. Very long and layered, plenty of harmony and confidence. The two flagship Pyramid Valley wines provide such a contrasting pair, it’s hard to believe the closeness of the blocks on this tiny biodynamically-farmed vineyard. Earth Smoke is the 0.8ha east-facing block, on limestone-clay (and a name for the herbaceous poppy Fumaria). 2024-2032

Botanicals collection. Waikari vineyard. Cask sample.Pale garnet. Great fruit concentration well handled. Full of zest and life with great judgement regarding extraction. Tannin/acid/fruit balance just right! Peppery note. (JR)