Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna delle Grazie, Il Marroneto 2020

Alessandro Mori has a complicated relationship with the Riserva category, having produced the wine from 1980 to 1988 before abandoning it, only to return with a one-off release in 2013. With the Il Marroneto 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna delle Grazie, we see the next chapter. Alessandro Mori insists there is no formula for deciding when a Riserva is made. “Every year is different,” he says. “It’s not science; it’s a feeling. One person is named Alessandro and another person is Alessio; they are just different people.” While he is contemplating another Riserva in 2025, he is quick to note that it is far too early to know.Born in the auspicious botte number 18 and aged for 58 months, the 2020 Riserva leans into a dark fruit spectrum with elegant aromatics and a profoundly silky texture. High phenolics were evident from the outset, prompting Alessandro Mori to call it “a monster,” yet the wine completed an extraordinarily slow and gradual fermentation lasting three and a half years, a rarity made possible thanks to native yeasts and the absence of temperature control. That long evolution has shaped remarkable texture and stability, finishing with generosity, freshness and a finely etched tannic lift. Full-bodied yet seamless, this is a true 360-degree wine, sensual, rich and deeply expressive. As Alessandro Mori reflects, “Wine is not perfect. It becomes perfect with time. That’s how it finds its true balance.” Produced in just 150 magnums, this is a rare and spectacular bottle from Il Marroneto

A deep and smoky wine that’s multilayered and compact. The nose shows dried flowers, incense, licorice, graphite, restrained red cherries and pomegranates. Full-bodied, dense and velvety, it’s still youthful on the austere palate yet ripe and tight-knit with crisp acidity. Not ready to drink. Best from 2030.