Brunello di Montalcino, Azienda Salvioni (La Cerbaiola) 2016

Roses upon roses, wild strawberries, dusty cedar spice box, mint leaf and a hint of wet stone open the stage for the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino from Salvioni. This is beauty personified in wine, and it’s completely atypical for the harshly warm and dry vintage conditions. It fleshes out across the palate like fine silk, concentrated and poised, yet without a hard edge in sight, as cherries and plums give way to mounting minerality and sweet tannins toward the close. The 2017 boasts a crystalline structure and dramatic inner floral perfumes, as hints of cranberry and clove taper off. While this may not show the impeccable grace of the most classic vintages, it’s a darling all the same and has medium-term cellaring potential. 2024-2032