Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay, Kumeu River 2019

The 2019 Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay is straight out of the blocks with power and intensity. It is concentrated, with a scintillating score of gravelly phenolics that drag the fruit characters out over the palate. It veritably glitters with intense fruit, which is tropical without being mushy or sweet at all. The oak feels toasty, and the fruit and the acid are all in harmony. This is impressive plus.

Made in just the same way as all the Kumeu River single-vineyard Kumeu 2019 Chardonnays.Fuller than the Hunting Hill but with much more framework and tension than the Coddington. Already so pleasing! With that extra breadth plus undertow. Fantastic length. Creamy texture. One for hedonists – by which I don't mean it's at all sweet. But it's richer than the Hunting Hill yet still has that New Zealand purity of fruit. Who could resist this? New Zealand Chardonnay at its finest. Perhaps slightly less burgundian than the Hunting Hill. 14%Drink 2020 – 2032

As expected, much sleeker than the Coddington. More gunsmoke and grapefruit, lemon meringue pie. Some lovely nougat, flint notes. Acidity runs right across the palate giving a taut, salinme backbone. Quite a bit of new oak adds another layer of complexity. Whereas the Coddington could almost be enjoyed now, the HH really needs much longer. Drink from 2027-2040. Tasted Mar 2025. ***** 5 Star Wine

Scents of hazelnut, mocha and lime-custard crème brûlée appear on the nose of the 2019 Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay. Complex and compelling, it's undoubtedly one of Kumeu River's top recent efforts. Medium to full-bodied, plump and generous on the palate, yet marked by zesty acids and a bright, citrusy finish, it's wonderfully balanced and drinkable now, yet it should age effortlessly for at least a decade. 2021 - 2030.