Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu River 2019

The 2019 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is weighted solely on the back palate and is powerful, tightly structured and salty. This is a wine of magnitude, complexity and textural width, and it shows even more promise for the future than the Coddington, which was looking mouthwateringly full of potential. This is a ripper.

On a slope overlooking Maté's Vineyard. Replanted in 2000. Made in exactly the same way as Coddington but always a bit tenser.High-toned, tight and very sophisticated. The sort of wine that demands comparison with fine white burgundy. Real integrity and depth. Dry (not sweet) and with light grip on the palate. You could drink this now but you shouldn't; it will so clearly improve, deepen in flavour while retaining its admirable structure and vitality. Much more 'mineral' than the Coddington. Real tingle here. I'm sure Michael Brajkovich won't thank me for the comparison but it does rather remind me in structure of one of Rafael Palacios's finest Valdeorras single-vineyard bottlings. (And those are the wines that remind me of a great Puligny …). Drink 2020 – 2034

As expected, much sleeker than the Coddington. More gunsmoke and grapefruit, lemon meringue pie. Some lovely nougat, flint notes. Acidity runs right across the palate giving a taut, salinme backbone. Quite a bit of new oak adds another layer of complexity. Whereas the Coddington could almost be enjoyed now, the HH really needs much longer. Drink from 2027-2040. Tasted Mar 2025. ***** 5 Star Wine

The peach-inflected 2019 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is considerably plusher and more generous than the Coddington. Medium to full-bodied, the mouthfeel is welcoming and silky, the flavors ranging from yellow peach and grilled pineapple to toasted hazelnuts and even a touch of honey, balanced on the lengthy finish by bright citrus notes. 2021 - 2030.