Sociando Mallet 2009

This uncompromising property has turned out a backward, forbiddingly tannic wine that, even in this very opulent and flamboyant vintage, will need a minimum of 10-15 years of cellaring yet keep for 40 or more years. Opaque black/purple, with notes of crushed rock, white flowers, graphite, blueberry and cassis, the wine is tight and needs to be coaxed from the glass. It is medium to full-bodied, with an excruciatingly tough-textured finish. Everything is here, and the wine is set for a long life, but it is not the least bit charming and certainly won't be for at least another decade.

The 2009 Sociando Mallet has a tightly wound bouquet. Mainly red fruit, raspberry and wild strawberry are mixed with cedar and mint, becomes fresh and lively after three or four minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly soft entry, missing some depth (especially for a 2009). A stilted finish that just lacks the flow one would expect. This falls below my expectations compared to previous bottles. This is Sociando-Mallet being its usual unpredictable self.. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting. 89?

Shows precision here, with floral, blueberry and mineral aromas that follow through to a full body and firm and racy tannins. Very polished texture to this wine. Goes on for minutes on the plate. Back in form! Try after 2017.

Deep purple. Scented and very well integrated but not as intensely sweet as most St-Estèphes. Hint of yeast extract. Very interesting! Lots of vitality. Lightly drying on the finish but with real character and restraint - just the merest hint of whisky barrels. Date tasted 1st April 2010. Drink 2017-2030.