Rieussec 2009

The nose is fleshed out by ripe fruit, apricots, pears and fleshy yellow peaches. The lushness is balanced by lime and lemon freshness that gives a more elegant, racy feel on the mid palate and helps to bring out the Noble Rot spice that lurks towards the back. Drink 2022-2060.

Punters who want to secure a rare case of Château Lafite are often required to purchase one or more cases of Rieussec, too. This won't be a hardship in 2009, because the wine is very stylish, with flavours of pears and cinnamon, good acidity and plenty of sweetness (160 grams per litre). Not quite a superstar Sauternes, but certainly an impressive wine. 10+ years.

Massive, with great transformed level of alcohol, useful when the sugar content is so high too, a monument of a wine, but a wait of 10 years at least will be necessary to do justice to its majestic power.

The team at Chateau Rieussec have conjured a stellar wine in 2009. There is a little reduction at first that fortunately blows away, revealing thickly layered scents of honey, Danish pastry and quince that appear to gain vigor with every passing sip. The palate is stunning: very viscous in the mouth with tangy grapefruit, honey and white peach. It is still primal, but the acidity is perfectly judged and there is a life-affirming sense of precision and tension towards the finish. Exceptional. Drink now-2045.

The minerality and stoniness really comes through on the nose of this Rieussec, more than the 2007. The palate is very well balanced with superb acidity, real tension, steely with great precision with notes of apricot, white peach and honey on the beautifully defined finish. Probably the best Rieussec since the astounding 2001.