Ermitage Le Pavillon, Maison M. Chapoutier 2019

The star of the show as well as one of the wines of this great vintage, the 2019 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes all from broken granite soils of the Bessards lieu-dit and was all destemmed, vinified in concrete tanks, and brought up in just 15% new French oak, with a tiny amount in a small foudre as well. The level of new oak continues to plummet at this estate, which around a decade ago or more was utilizing 100% new barrels. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it’s a perfect example of the Iron Fist in a Velvet Glove saying and has incredible opulence paired with precision and finesse. Giving up both blue and black fruits as well as powdered stone, violets, scorched earth, and subtle smoke, this is pure Hermitage magic and Syrah doesn’t get any better. It needs at least 7-8 years (a decade would be better) of bottle age and will be a 50-year wine.

Very deep black-fruit and bitter-chocolate aromas, but also notes of balsamic vinegar, leather and tar. Very powerful and weighty, but with mineral freshness that keeps it very bright. The enormous, fine tannins are married to very sweet fruit The brain-rattling intensity at the finish might be too much now, but give it a few years in bottle and it will blow your mind. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

Massively concentrated and tannic, Chapoutier's 2019 Ermitage le Pavillon looks as if it will take a few more years to come around than the other selections parcellaires. The initial scents of crushed stone and cassis are intriguing, but this full-bodied wine comes across almost cold and reserved yet immensely promising. On this occasion, Michel Chapoutier pronounced it "a tea of granite," which describes it fairly well, although hints of its future charms can be seen on the long, licorice-tinged and mouthwatering finish.

The 2019 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from the Bessards lieu-dit, which is just to the west of the Le Méal, but the soils are drastically different, with the Bessards being pure broken granite soils, and in this reviewers opinion, the best terroir in the world for Syrah. Thrilling crème de cassis, gunflint, acacia flowers, violets, and spicy nuances give way to a full-bodied, powerful, yet elegant Hermitage that has incredible class in its tannins, flawless balance, and the depth and length to evolve for 30+ years.