Côte Rôtie La Landonne, René Rostaing 2005

Tasted twice with virtually identical notes. A fabulous nose of blackberry, smoke, oyster shells and garrigues. Just a faint hint of anis on one of the samples. The palate is full-bodied and beautifully balanced, simply bursting with character. Firm tannins, mushroom, spice, black olives and graphite. Stunning definition and focus, this has a definite swagger of confidence about it. Great persistency on the finish. Simply stunning. Tasted December 2006. Drinking 2015-2035.

The 2005 Cote Rotie La Landonne (8,500 bottles) offers the scorched earth, bacon fat, tapenade, and black fruits that come from this northern site in Cote Rotie. Tannic, superbly concentrated, and beginning to close down, this is a big mouthful of classic wine meant for long-term cellaring. Give it 4-5 years of bottle age and drink it over the following two decades.

Bright ruby. Explosive dark fruits on the nose, complicated by an array of pungent floral tones. A strong boysenberry quality is complicated by a deeper and even sweeter note of chewing tobacco. Really expands on the finish, picking up a spicy, peppery quality and displaying suave, silky tannins.

Tangy, bonfires on the nose. Very intense and nerveux. Lots of fruity intensity on the front palate with some leather and spice. Taut and very true to the climat. Neat finish. Drink 2010-25