CDP Secret de Sabon, Domaine Roger Sabon 2016

Gorgeous, with warm ganache and steeped plum aromas enlivened by bright anise and floral hints, leading into a core of raspberry, blackberry and plum fruit that is pure and racy through the lengthy finish. Dense but sleek, showing great cut and drive. Best from 2020 through 2045.

I tasted the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon blind, alongside the other 2016s from this fine estate, and failed to discern a huge difference between it and the impressive Prestige or Reserve bottlings. I don't doubt that time will prove my rating to be conservative, hence the + sign. Winemaker Didier Négron retained some stems in this cuvée, and they show for the moment in its slightly herbal-minty notes, but they're balanced by ripe Grenache fruit that suggests apricot and plum. Lavender and thyme join in on the creamy, lush finish of this full-bodied but elegant offering. Drink: 2020-2035

Smoke, juicy red fruit, very chewy tannic grip. More flavour concentration than their Prestige and Olivets, and better persistence too. Drink: 2020-2036