CDP Croix de Bois, Maison M. Chapoutier 2019

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Croix De Bois comes from a single vineyard near the town of Bedarrides and, as with the Barbe Rac, is 100% destemmed Grenache aged in concrete tanks. While I ordinarily prefer the Barbe Rac in terms of quality, this cuvée, which comes from cooler, more clays soils, offers a touch more purity and precision in 2019. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and nicely focused on the palate, it has incredibly Provençal notes of red and black fruits, peppery garrigue, saddle leather, and chalky minerality. It’s also perfectly balanced. I’d happily drink a bottle today, but a few years in the cellar will do it well, and it will certainly evolve for two decades.

All Grenache from a classic clay-and-galets site on the eastern side of the appellation, Chapoutier's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois is a bigger, more rugged expression of Grenache than the more elegant Barbe Rac. Bold black cherry and licorice notes lead the way in this full-bodied, rich, velvety wine that should drink well for at least a decade.

Ratcheting up the quality, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Croix De Bois boasts a more medium ruby/purple hue as well as a stunning bouquet of kirsch liqueur, ripe cherries, flowery incense, loamy soil, and Provençal garrigue. With incredible finesse, full-bodied richness, and a great mid-palate as well as silky tannins, this remarkable 2019 will benefit from just short-term cellaring and evolve for 15-20 years or more.