Sercial, Oliveira 1969

The 1969 Sercial is airy, gracious and ethereal, all of which makes it a fine choice for readers who enjoy a lighter style of Madeira. Even though the 1969 Sercial is not a big wine, it is certainly not lacking in depth or complexity. It’s the sort of wine that conveys intensity without excess weight, which is pretty compelling in my book. Orange peel, hazelnut, dried flowers and cinnamon open in the glass, with bright, searing tannins that saturate the finish. The 1969 is just gorgeous. Bottled in 2015. (Drink between 2022-2032)

Fascinating nose of quince paste with notes of sealing wax and antique mahogany furniture from the long aging make this elegant and mature Sercial unique. And just when you think that you’ve had all that is has to give, then comes a wave of richness and vital acidity that makes it take off at the extremely long and complex finish. Drink or hold.