Sancerre Chateau de Fontaine - Audon Terres de Silex, Brochard, Hubert 2023

Hand-harvested fruit from black, grey, pink and white flint soils and a thin layer of marl. Annual production is usually around 90,000 bottles. Brochard's Terre de Silex bottling has more than a passing resemblance to a Pouilly-Fumé on steroids. Aged predominantly in stainless steel with a small percentage (10%) in amphorae, this spends over six months on fine lees. Concentrated, direct and mineral, with a distinct white-pepper character. Elegant and precise, with some struck-match on the nose.

Another heavy bottle, M Brochard. Smells peachier than the Thauvenay on terres blanches. But it is most certainly not fruitier, or fruity. A stony spine running from one end to the other throughly thinly sliced stone fruit. Quite uncompromising right now, but it tastes as if it will relax its clench and allow that stone fruit to shine through. Stunningly salty on the finish.