Chardonnay KC4, Whitewolfe 2023

Struck-match smoky on the nose, but not overtly so, and there is, exactly as the winemakers’ notes suggest, the sweet fragrance of Amalfi lemon. It is vibrating like a tuning fork in the mouth, energy tightly contained but exploding through the cracks. Fractal acidity that seems to catch the light and fling a thousand crystals at a cold, white moon. First poured, it has a kind of monastic discipline, mouthing a silent chant through bare stone walls. But it opens in the glass – it seems to need that space and time – and as it does, possibilities unpleat and show me that, given time, this wine will probably taste of Calanda peaches and buttery toasted-golden almond crumble. Clementine on the finish. Give this wine space and time! If you really must pour it now, decant, do not serve it cold, and use big burgundy glasses. Drink: 2026-2033