Krug Grande Cuvee Edition 170 N.V.

Krug's NV Grande Cuvée 170ème Édition is based on the 2014 vintage, complemented by some 45% reserve wines dating back to 1998, with the house drawing on, among many others, 2013 for structure and 2012 and 2003 for generosity. Opening in the glass with aromas of pastry cream, dried fruits, pear, warm spices, freshly baked bread and vanilla pod, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and fine-boned, with excellent concentration, racy acids and a precise, chiseled profile. But if the latter adjective could be applied to the 2013-base 169ème édition equally felicitously, the 2014-base 170ème is more giving and less tightly wound out of the gates and will offer more demonstrative drinking young.

A subtle nose of maple syrup and candied lemon opens up to reveal a hint of maize meal and shiitake. It leads onto a palate that is utterly streamlined and lemon-scented. This is serene but it comes with beautiful depth and a lovely note of autolysis, expressed as lemony, creamy polenta, enhanced by fine mousse. There are highlights of grapefruit zestiness with the lovely signature savouriness of Krug, expressed in just a hint of salty, grilled shiitake mushroom, revealed on the long and mouth-watering finish. A most brisk, taut, bright, but also rather subtle and profound iteration of Krug.

Striking citrus focus here, with intense yellow citrus aromas, such as lemon and grapefruit, as well as flinty notes, wet stones and dried flowers, such as chamomile. Just the beginnings of more savory character, in the form of toast, cocoa powder and grilled nuts. The palate has a very taut, youthful and unevolved feel, showing elevated acidity and verticality as a central feature, around which the body and depth has been assembled. 55% 2014 harvest. 51% pinot noir 38% chardonnay and just 11% meunier in this edition. Try from 2024.

Lots of acidity! Extremely lively and brisk. But it’s actually readier than most young Grandes Cuvées I have tasted at this relatively early stage with sumptuous texture actually. Very clean and fresh. Bone dry but broachable and quite charming within the Krug ethos. Really quite friendly. One of my favourites of this line-up! Drink 2022-2036.