Gosset Celebris 2002

Magnificent in its complexity and pure breeding, the 2002 Extra Brut Celebris has it all. The Extra Brut style confers the signature Gosset drive, while extended time on the lees has given the wine just enough texture and body to fill out nicely. In the meantime, the aromas and flavors have mellowed into those that are typical of Champagne entering the first plateau of its maturity. The 2002 is vinous, fleshy and super-expressive, yet retains striking freshness throughout. Candied lemon peel, apricot jam, honey, mint, spices and sage form a compelling fabric of flavors and textures in a knock-out Champagne that is peaking today. The 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir from vineyards in Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzy, Chouilly and Cramant.

(a blend of 8 grands crus with 64% chardonnay and 36% pinot noir). An elegant, complex and wonderfully expressive nose features plenty of yeast character on the citrusy, apple, pear, brioche and cool floral scents. There is equally good complexity to the detailed, refined and intense flavors that seem to lilt across the palate thanks to the ultra-fine bead of the supporting mousse, all wrapped in a delicious and refreshing finale that delivers excellent length. I was suitably impressed by this effort that offers the choice of enjoying its considerable pleasures now or holding it for another 3 to 5 years first, which is what I would suggest. Drink 2018+.