Yquem 2010

Exhibiting notions of saffron, pineapple, apricot, exotic fruits and spices, the 2010 d'Yquem is full-bodied, broad and enveloping, perfectly balanced with controlled power and a deep, fleshy core of fruit enhanced by bright acids. It has stunning aging potential despite a slight touch of volatile acidity. Residual sugar: 138 grams per liter.

'2010 was a cool year for us.' Winter and autumn cold, good dry, warm summer. Very healthy grapes, though quite a bit of rain on the flowering, A bit of coulure on Sauvignon so less than usual in the blend, just 13% compared to the usual 20%. Pale gold with slight greenness. Gorgeous, classic nose. Pear juice a go-go. Absolutely stunning freshness as well as all the botrytis. Classic. Real punchy perfect savoury Sauternes. Zesty and lovely with some chew on the end. No shortage of botrytis. Very distinctive and much less sweet than 2009. (155 g/l in 2009, 141 g/l in 2010). Refined finish. Finished 5 Nov. Five passes. Real punch and zest. Grapefruit peel. But not a massive sweet bomb. 13.55%

There is a lovely mix of fragrances sweet fruited but not over lush. Botryirs is very much in evidence on the palate backed by lots of apricot and peach. The richness of caramelised peel enriches the middle but towards the back citric freshness lifts the fruit and lightens the finish. This is a very elegant but not a heavy weight d'Yquem.

Extraordinary purity of aromas, with an airy power difficult to rival, a new brilliant example of the actual style of the property, with the vintage's monumental body completely hidden by the refinement of tactile sensations. Some are nostalgic for the epic oily bodies of the past, not I (even if I greatly admire them). Drink 2020-2070.

Such are the risks of tasting blind. Against its peers, the brilliance that Chateau 2010 d'Yquem showed from barrel seems to have become lost. This is still a wonderful Sauternes wine, yet this showing suggests that is it not "best in class". The nose demands coaxing in the glass compared to its peers, but it is worth the patience as it unfurls to reveal quince, beeswax and honeysuckle aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous entry and well-judged acidity. There is a touch of orange peel lining the citrus fruit, with an effervescent finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is an excellent d'Yquem, but it needs to keep an eye on the competition. Drink 2018-2035+.

Picked predominantly over 10 days from October 14, the 2010 d'Yquem has 141gms/L residual sugar and pH 3.80. It is a slow-burner, the nose understated at first but unfurling with each passing moment with subtle scents of freshly sliced apricots, Clementine, clear honey and white flowers. There is an underlying minerality that really defines this bouquet. The palate is similar to the nose, revealing hidden facets with almost each swirl of the glass - orange blossom, limestone, white peach and honeysuckle. This is such a precise d'Yquem; it is after you have swallowed the wine that one comprehends just how brilliant it is.