Gruaud Larose 2019

Savoury, chiselled and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated fruits, totally gorgeous and so moreish. Controlled power, huge precision, with an elasticity to the tannins. It is Left Bank in a glass, St Julien in a glass, and easily one of the greatest Gruaud Larose's at this stage for a good few decades. Harvest September 20 to October 5. First year in certified organic conversion. Totally beautiful. 80% new oak

Tasted blind. Sweet, rich, purple-fruited nose. Opulent, come-hither St-Julien! Dramatic – perhaps too alcoholic for purists? 13.5%Drink 2026– 2043

I wasn't able to taste the 2019 Château Gruaud Larose from barrel, but it's certainly an impressive Saint-Julien in bottle. Deep purple, with beautiful cassis and darker raspberry fruits as well as spice, dried flowers, and cedary incense notes, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness carrying plenty of sweet tannins, a deep, concentrated mid-palate, and beautiful length. It's not the dense blockbuster style of the 2018 and is much more elegant and pretty, with plenty of up-front charm. It's beautifully done. It's going to benefit from just short-term bottle age and have 25+ years of prime drinking.

The 2019 Gruaud Larose is composed of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a fair bit of swirling to unlock notes of pencil lead, black olives, anise and dried roses with a core of black currant pastilles, Morello cherries, cedar chest, and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, the flavors slowly grow in the mid-palate with layer upon layer of crucnhy black and red fruits and lots of earthy accents, finishing very long with lingering fragrance.

The 2019 Gruaud-Larose is a step up from the previous vintage with ebullient red berry fruit mixed with cedar and sous-bois . It's less pastille-like than a few months ago and is more serious and saline. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, better acidity and more nervosité than the 2019, with a vivid, harmonious and smooth espresso and seaweed-tinged finish. Just a lovely Gruaud-Larose.

The 2019 Gruaud Larose, bottled in May 2021, represents around one-third of the total production. This was the first time I had tasted this Saint-Julien. The nose unfolds to reveal black cherries, blueberry, a touch of pastilles and a hint of orange blossom. The palate is quite tannic on the entry, with crunchy black fruit, and classic in style. Very saline toward the finish, which is strict and slightly briny, and yet, lo and behold, with 10–15 minutes of aeration it begins to cohere and blossom. This needs several years in bottle but should be well worth waiting for. My question is whether it will surpass the 2018. Drink 2025-2050.

Although Gruaud Larose is part of the UGC that sent over samples from its members, they decided not to take part, a decision that I respect. I look forward to tasting their 2019 when I can go to Bordeaux.