Magrez-Fombrauge 2000

Made in an over-the-top style that seems to get more classic as the wine ages, this special cuvee from the Fombrauge vineyard (made by Michel Rolland for Bernard Magrez) reveals a dense plum/purple color in addition to a big, sweet nose of camphor, creosote, blackberries, blueberries, espresso roast, graphite, and toasty oak, and a phenomenally layered, full-bodied, rich mouthfeel. I thought this 2000 would be close to full maturity by 2006, but it remains surprisingly youthful. It should drink well for 20-25 more years. Bravo!

This is the debut vintage of this micro-cuvee (420 cases) from a tiny parcel of Fombrauge planted with 20-25-year old Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%). One of the vintage's superstars, this prodigious effort continues to put on weight and richness. An unctuously-textured blockbuster, with a wealth of fruit, and a sumptuous bouquet of spring flowers, espresso, blackberry liqueur, minerals, and toasty oak, it is full-bodied and seamless with extraordinary intensity, purity, and symmetry. As the wine sat in the glass, an intense note of graphite emerged, but the oak (it was aged and went through malolactic in 100% new oak) has totally disappeared! Where did it go? Sheer nectar of the vine! Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020.