Cos d'Estournel 2000

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, which never quite grabbed me from barrel, is maturing nicely in bottle. As it approaches two decades, it continues to offer an intense, almost ambitious bouquet with blackberry, hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Both vigor and delineation is present here. The palate is medium-bodied rather than full-bodied these days, very well balanced if not possessing the poise and precision of the 2001. It fans out with confidence towards the finish that is lithe, yet provides sufficient grip and persistence to suggest it will give another two decades of drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Cos d’Estournel vertical in London. Drink 2018-2045.

Showing some lightening at the edges as well as some amber, this is the least impressive of the greatest vintages for Cos d'Estournel between 2000 and 2009. It is an outstanding wine, but it is closer to maturity and lacking the concentration, texture, and overall compelling aromatics of more recent vintages. The wine displays roasted herbs intermixed with licorice, incense, black cherry, and black currant fruit. Medium-bodied, rather than full, elegant, with some spicy tannins and a nice sweet finish, compared to the other top classified growths, this wine is on a much faster evolutionary track and can be drunk now and over the next 15 or more years.

This wine puts on weight and grows in stature every time I go back to it. In fact, from the bottle it was better than ever. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, the 2000 Cos d'Estournel suffers only in comparison with its successor, the 2001. Deep bluish purple in color with a reticent but emerging bouquet of cedar, licorice, blueberry, cassis, vanilla, and lead pencil shavings, this medium-bodied, slightly sinewy Cos d'Estournel has relatively high tannin, an excellent mid-palate, and a persistent finish. Purity and classicism are hallmarks of this top-flight wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022.

This wine has put on weight, thrown off the subtle herbaceous notes detectable last year, and fleshed out its mid-palate. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, it exhibits an inky ruby/purple color, a luscious perfume of blackberries, cassis, licorice, spice, and toasty oak, medium to full body, a beautiful texture, a concentrated mid-palate, sweet tannin, and a long, elegant, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025.