Pouilly Fuissé Les Combes VV, Verget 2023

It's always hard to choose between this bottling and La Roche, and as usual, the 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combes Vieilles Vignes is a touch richer and broader out of the gates. Picked in three separate harvests (collecting only the ripest grapes on each passage), the Verget team pulled out all the stops to craft a medium to full-bodied, layered and satiny wine that's seamless and complete, evoking aromas of pear, honeycomb, white flowers and toasted nuts. 2025 - 2040

Pale gold. Light nose but real density on the palate. Tingling intensity. Real grip but so much complex fruit in the middle of the undoubted framework. Savoury, saline finish. The most Côte d’Or style in this line-up of Verget’s 2023s. (JR)