Pontet Canet 2000

Upgraded in score over my original rating, which was several points lower, Alfred Tesseron has done a remarkable job since 1994 with Pontet-Canet, which has been hitting first-growth levels since 2003. But the 2000 also shows exceptionally well. In need of another decade of cellaring, this dense purple wine has a classic nose of incense, charcoal, creme de cassis, and subtle new oak. Full-bodied, powerful, still very tannic, and shockingly backward, this is a big, rich wine that has put on weight and seems to need more time than I originally predicted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035+.

Compared to the 2001, the millennial Pontet-Canet is more expressive on the nose with blackberry, cedar, graphite, tobacco and a slight leafy quality that merely lends it freshness and vitality. The palate is medium-bodied, very pure and refined, lovely balance and yet somehow missing the intensity and vigour of ensuing vintages, a four-gear Pontet-Canet rather than five-gear despite the vintage but it would be churlish to ignore the supple, slightly lactic, chocolaty finish. Delicious! Drink 2010-2020.

Like its neighbor, Mouton Rothschild, this wine seems to have closed down considerably after bottling. The impressively saturated opaque purple color offers up some promising aromas of black currants, vanilla, truffle, smoke, and mineral. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, powerful, layered, and enticingly textured, but oh, so backward and firm. The finish is long, but this broodingly backward, large-scaled Pontet-Canet will require considerable patience. Does it rival the brilliant 1995 or 1996? I am not sure. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2030.

A stunning offering is the 2000. An opaque purple color is accompanied by an impressive aromatic display of pure creme de cassis, high quality oak, sweet earth, and smoke. It is a steely, extremely long classic with noticeable tannin as well as fine concentration and power, and a 45-second finish. This broodingly backward, hulking Pontet-Canet will require patience. (92-94) points