Nuits Premier Cru Cuvee Hors Ligne, Domaine de l'Arlot 2017

This is really quite aromatically pretty with its well-layered and very fresh array of various red and dark berries that is cut with plenty of earth, game and floral whiffs. There is equally good freshness and verve to the rich and relatively full-bodied flavors that evidence solid power on the more structured and youthfully austere if compact finish where a hint of bitter cherry character arises. This built-to-age effort is going to require extended patience if you wish to enjoy it at its peak. (Drink starting 2033)

A special selection of 3000 bottles from one tank which had a different character all the way through. Two sectors have been vinified together, both mid slope but opposite ends. Slightly less dense colour, smoky notes on the nose, it is lighter and tenser, the stems speaking here, adding a mineral crunch at the back. Altogether different style, with very good length. Detailed red fruit comes back behind. Tasted: November 2018.

A cuvée that was last made in 1969, this is an older-vine selection from the Clos, made with 75% whole bunches and 50% new wood. There are only 3,000 bottles to go around, but it is well worth seeking out. It's supple, forward and appealing, with savoury/sweet flavours, a hint of umami, fine-boned tannins and enough acidity for balance. (Drink between 2022-2027)