Montrachet, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2017

A restrained nose flirts with the exotic while requiring aggressive swirling to eventually reveal aromas of essence of pear and apple compote, passion fruit, tangerine peel, spice and a subtle but not invisible touch of wood. The dense, opulent and caressing big-bodied flavors possess outstanding mid-palate concentration thanks to the copious amount of sappy dry extract that also buffers the citrus-tinged acidity shaping the hugely long, youthfully austere, dry and gorgeously complex finish. This is at once powerful and muscular yet for all of the imposing size and weight, the balance is impeccable save for a minor touch of warmth. Even so, there is a real sense of harmony that should enable this exceptionally tightly wound beauty to age gracefully for years to come. This is sublime and while 2017 is not the best young Montrachet that I have tasted from the Domaine, but among them and this has the potential to be genuinely great as it should have no problem making for very old bones.