Malescot Saint Exupéry 2009

An inky/purple color is followed by notes of Asian plum sauce, forest floor, creme de cassis, black raspberries and a floral component that is unusual for a Margaux. A wine of exceptional intensity and purity with a full-bodied, sumptuous texture, lots of fresh vibrancy and excellent definition, this beautiful 2009 exhibits high but sweet tannin. It is more sexy than the 2005 was at a similar age, although their level of extract and concentration is relatively equal. Something about the 2009 reminds me of a Margaux version of St.-Julien-s Leoville Poyferre ... if that makes any sense. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.This is another fabulous effort from an estate that has been doing extraordinary work over the last 10-15 years. I enjoyed the 2009 as much as the 2005, perhaps even slightly more because while it has structure, the tannins are less aggressive and there is more succulence, flesh and texture in the 2009.

Tasted at a negociant. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot 4%, Merlot 35% and Cabernet Franc 8% picked between 29th September until 16th October. This has a ripe, black cherry, briary, graphite tinged bouquet that exudes purity, feminine charm and unlike some other Margaux wine, does not forget where it was born. The palate is medium-bodied with a lively, slightly peppery entry, very fine but robust tannins, very focused with a sense of "controlled power" on the finish. This is a very classy, sophisticated Margaux demonstrating great persistency and elan. Excellent. Tasted March 2010.

My Wine of the Year is ...Malescot St. Exupery Margaux 2009 (98)...one of my favorite wines from the extraordinary vintage of 2009 in Bordeaux. It's always shown such fabulous complexity and balance regardless of when I first tasted it in the barrel, and now in the bottle. I should add that I have done much more than tasted it in recent months. I have consumed numerous bottles of the wine in Bordeaux as well as Hong Kong in the last few months, and the wine is absolutely delicious as well as shows fabulous structure. It underlines what I learned at an early stage of tasting great Bordeaux in the 1980s, when the late winemaker Emile Peynaud pointed out that a great wine is always great to taste or even drink - regardless if it is a barrel sample, bottled wine, or mature bottle. The 2009 Malescot is that sort of wine.

Ch Malescot St-Exupéry 2009 MargauxTasted blind. Mid crimson. Just the right side of volatile but very winning and opulent. More 2009 than Margaux. A little dry and chewy for the moment. Massive volume and finish.Drink 2022-2036