Magdelaine 2009

You feel the slightly higher alcohol in the rich mouthfeel, a reflection of the warmer conditions of the vintage, but the limestone soils ensure the acidity is vibrant and balanced, and this gorgeous wine still delivers the understated ease, together with white truffles, tobacco leaf, mandarin peel and oyster shell salinity that Magdelaine expresses in every vintage, here with a bigger kick of damson, red cherry and kirsh. Confident but supple tannins that promise a long life ahead. You can drink this now, or hold. Eric Murisasco winemaker, 50% new oak.

A property that has largely been replanted over the last 25 years, the 2009 is one of the best the firm of Jean-Pierre Moueix has yet released from this estate. Eighty percent of this vineyard sits on the limestone plateau and 20% on the hillsides, and the 2009 displays a classic confiture of black cherries, some crushed rocks and spring flowers in a full-bodied, yet at the same time, ethereal and rather elegant style. The wine has gorgeous fruit purity, a broad, luscious texture, and more density and richness than one normally finds in this somewhat finesse-styled wine, which seems to have achieved more depth and potential in 2009. This should be drinkable in 5-6 years and keep for 25 or more.

Tasted at JP Moueix. The 2009 Magdelaine is rounded and more voluptuous on the nose than in previous years, with lifted strawberry, mulberry and black plum. Very fine definition, perhaps one could say, a little more modern. The palate is medium-bodied with very good weight, the tannins very well defined, very pure black fruit with a saline touch towards the deft, silky smooth finish. Perhaps it lacks a little persistency, but one can only admire the focus and precision here. Tasted March 2010.

Blueberry and floral aromas follow through to a full body, with racy tannins and a compacted berry and chocolate aftertaste. Expected a little more from this.