Lynch Bages 2003

This sexy, evolved, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2003 reveals notes of smoke, herbs, black currant jam, licorice and graphite. Full-bodied, opulent and flamboyant, it is another example of a stunning 2003 northern Medoc that can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 more years. This irregular vintage hit its zenith in the northern Medoc and in a handful of limestone terroirs in St.-Emilion. In contrast, other areas, particularly Pomerol, Graves and the sandy, gravelly soils of St.-Emilion, experienced difficulties in 2003.

One of the most popular wines of Bordeaux seems to be going through a period where the style seems lighter, and there is less muscle and mass, but perhaps it’s just a temporary transition. Certainly there has been no truly profound Lynch Bages since the 2000, preceded by the 1996, 1990, and 1989. Showing better than it did from cask with some toasty oak, moderate quantities of creme de cassis fruit, lower acidity, and a hint of cedar in an evolved style, the medium to full-bodied 2003 Lynch Bages does not lack for tannin and structure but finishes surprisingly short for a top vintage in the northern Medoc. It is very good, but falls short of outstanding. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2020.

After tasting the 2003 Lynch Bages on four separate occasions, I came away believing it is excellent, possibly outstanding, but not one of the greatest efforts from this estate. Made from yields of 43 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot exhibits a saturated ruby color with purple nuances. Fragrant cassis, currant, earth, and oak aromas are followed by a medium-bodied offering with excellent depth, low acidity, and a plump, round, juicy style. If it fills out, it will merit an outstanding score, but at this stage, it is well behind the level of the fabulous 2000. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.

Very rich and decadent style to this. Full-bodied, velvety tannins and a delicious finish. Flashy wine. Long and seductive. Maybe even better in bottle.