L'If 2020

Austere on the opening beats, then a ton of enjoyable berry fruits. As it settles in, it delivers fine tannins with intense and sappy hawthorn, crushed stone and tobacco leaf character backing them up. Great balance, some austerity, and a tiptoeing through the palate that speaks of its clay-limestone soils. Fiona and Jacques Thienpont are the owners here, with winemaking from their nephew Cyrille Thienpont. 50% new oak. A yield of 34hl/ha.Drinking Window 2025 - 2042

84% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample.Rich and ripe with damson and dark-fruit notes. Full and broad across the palate but backed and driven by very fine tannins. Texturally smooth, the chalky freshness and point of acidity on the finish pulling it all together. (JL) 14.6%Drink 2026 – 2035

The 2020 L'If is precocious on the nose, with macerated black cherries, crushed violet, and blueberry emerging with time, all very well-defined and focused. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a little fleshier than its stablemate L'Hêtre. A pinch of white pepper towards the second half and an almost sedate, harmonious pastille-like finish. This should be afforded 4-5 years in bottle.

The 2020 L’If is the first to include the Cabernet Franc that Jacques Thienpont planted four years ago, representing 16% of the blend this year, the remainder is Merlot. It has a more open nose than the Le Pin tasted alongside, a mélange of red berry fruit, mint, iodine and a dab of liquorice. That Cabernet Franc lends a little pepperiness. The palate is very well balanced with seamlessly integrated new oak, plush and rounded. A more sensual wine than Le Pin this year, forward and generous with a ripe and very pure, mineral-driven finish. This will be difficult to resist, so don’t say I didn’t warn you. 2026 - 2045

This is all in finesse and focus with a compact palate of ultra fine tannins that are like the finest silk. It’s full-bodied and grows on the palate with a crescendo of focused fruit and fine, chewy tannins. The tannins grow and persist.