L'Eglise Clinet 2012

The carefully-crafted precision of the fruits is clear right from the first nose. A serious, subdued L'Eglise Clinet at 10 years old, putting a marker down in terms of carefully-crafted fruits and fine-boned tannins. Enjoyable, tertiary notes of truffles and earth are just beginning to surface. 80% new oak.

90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, on clay and gravel, very small volume this year. Deep dark crimson. Black core. Just-ripe dark fruit and sweet oak spice on the nose. Hint of char and cedar. Chewy and firm and just enough fruit in the middle but only just. Savoury, lots of char but lots more to come. It's less approachable than many a 2012. I like its earthy firmness but the char taste on the oak seems a little heavy. (JH)

Bramble, cassis and black cherry give lots of complexity on the nose and a lovely mix of flavours on the palate. The mid palate is sumptuous rich with layers of flavour the fleshy black plum backed by fresher black cherry. There is a sweet fruited power at the back yet a stylish freshness on the finish. 2020-38.

"This isn't a great vintage," says Denis Durantou, "because in a great vintage, good wines are made everywhere." He may be right, but the wizard of Pomerol has worked his magic again in 2012. Yields were down 25% on 2011 because of coulure and selection, but Durantou's touch has transformed promising raw material into something very special. This is sweet, plump, plush and concentrated with notes of spice, orange peel and Christmas cake and masses of structure, intensity and restrained power, offset by refreshing acidity. Drink: 2020-50

Along with Petrus, the 2012 l'Eglise Clinet is the potential wine of the vintage. An amazing tour de force in winemaking, the wine's inky/purple color is accompanied by copious notes of spring flowers, creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, truffles, caramels and graphite. Full-bodied with enormous concentration, the purity, exquisite balance and sheer gravitas and palate presence of this massive yet phenomenally compelling Pomerol are something to behold. Kudos to l'Eglise Clinet. This wine will be approachable in 4-5 years, and last for three decades or more.

The Grand Vin was picked between 21 September and 4th October for the Merlot, with the Cabernet Franc picked on 6th October. A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc (aged in 80% new oak) it has Burgundy-like minerality and purity on the nose that is taciturn at first, but blossoms nicely in the glass whilst maintaining a sense of restraint and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with very pure fruit and a silky texture. The acidity is extremely well judged, the Cabernet Franc lending this wine just a touch of edginess. There is sublime focus on the mineral-laden finish. One day, Denis Durantou will make a wine that does not merit a stream of superlatives. But that day seems a long way away. Tasted April 2013.

This really builds at the end of the palate, which clearly shows it's top notch. It's full-bodied, and grows on the palate ever so steadily. Lovely berry, chocolate, and hazelnut character. Goes on for a minutes. This has wonderful tannin tension for the vintage. Better than 2011