Lafon Rochet 2022

New team under ex-Lafite winemaker Christophe Congé (who will be heading to sibling estate Pédéslaux for the 2025 vintage), there is plenty happening at Lafon Rochet, and this is intense enjoyable, well put together, slight rustic tannins on the finish that emphasise their edges a little more than during En Primeur, but this seems set for the long haul, and is balanced by plentiful black fruits. 50% new oak for ageing, 60% 1st wine, down from 70% in 2021, as the new team focuses heavily on quality.

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc. First vintage for technical director Christophe Congé (ex Lafite). Cask sample.Dense and concentrated with dark-fruit and floral notes. Smooth attack then plenty of punch and drive, the tannins fine but present. Tighter tannic frame than in the past. More gravitas. (JL) 14.5%Drink 2030– 2042

The inaugural vintage for winemaker Christophe Congé, the 2022 Lafon-Rochet is an ambitiously styled blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Offering up aromas of crème de cassis, burning embers and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and velvety, with supple, generously extracted tannins and a rather lavish, demonstrative profile. It's a wine crafted to grab one's attention, but if élevage is kind to it, it may make my score seem conservative.

This shows a terrific tannin backbone with blackcurrants and berries. Medium body. Solid fruit. Vivid. 65% cabernet sauvignon, 31% merlot and 4% cabernet franc.

Baked plum, damson, black pepper, edges of cut herbs and dried rose petals, campfire smoke and soot. This is intense but has an aromatic quality that hugs through the palate, and the tannins are plentiful but well controlled. 50% new oak plus some large oak casks, and 400l barrels; almost 60% 1st wine, down from 70% last year (in a better vintage this year, really an indication of the focus on quality under the new team). Harvest September 12 to 27. Eric Boissenot consultant together wtih director Christophe Congé, ex Lafite, in his first full vintage. As of 2024 this will be the first Cru Classé in St Estèphe to be certified organic.