La Mondotte 2009

This is grace and power, delivering stunning Lapsang souchong tea and pain d'épices aromatics, followed by incredibly lush, yet refined blackberry, steeped black currant and dark plum sauce flavors. The long, velvety finish hangs perfectly, with buried minerality giving just the crease for definition. Best from 2015 through 2030.-J.M.

Exudes power. Big and bold on the palate. Rich, luxurious fruit. Forceful tannins but ripe and smooth. Good acidity provides balance. Limestone terroir freshness on the finish. Drink 2018-2028.

This nearly 12-acre parcel on the clay and limestone plateau above Pavie Decesse has produced a killer succession of wines ever since the debut vintage of 1996. The 2000, tasted in preparation for a big article on that vintage, is just out of this world, as is the 1998, and remarkably, a very underrated wine, the 1997. The 2009 looks like another phenomenal effort. Is it better than 2005, 2000, or 1998? It's too early to tell. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, this wine tips the scales at an all-time high of 14.5% alcohol. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, who makes this wine for Stephan von Neipperg, said the crop yields were 18 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is painfully rich, but at the same time retains an extraordinary elegance and freshness. A full-bodied wine with plenty of raspberries, red and black currants, and a cool minerality, the wine is full-bodied, powerful, yet at the same time possesses sweet tannins, a very layered mouthfeel, and dazzling purity and length. It will need 5-7 years of cellaring and will drink well for three decades. (Tasted four times.) Drink 2015-2045.

Black olive, green olive and coffee bean. Ripe fruit too. Full-bodied, with velvety and polished tannins and fabulous fruit. Love the texture and depth of fruit to this wine. So long too. Tangy freshness at the end.