Porseleinberg Syrah, Boekenhoutskloof 2017

The 2017 Porseleinberg saw 327mm of rain, which fell later in the season and meant they could irrigate at the right time. It was also much cooler than the previous year. Matured 70% in wooden foudre and 30% concrete eggs, this is a little more tertiary and austere on the nose with leather and bay leaf notes. The fruit gains presence with aeration. The palate is fresh and linear, well-defined with a gradual build in the mouth. There is real tension and depth, slight viscosity toward the finish with a beguiling peacock's tail on the finish. Magnificent. 2026-2050

An expressive nose of red cherry, sage, rosemary, and black pepper. Full-bodied with fine, silky tannins. Fruity and energetic with wonderful intensity and depth. Savory red and black fruit wash over the palate with an abundance of delicious fresh herbs and ground spice. Long and gorgeous. Drink or hold.

Has any brand in South Africa achieved quite so much as Porseleinberg in less than a decade? This is the best vintage yet from this steep, brutal, extreme schist-rich site and that's saying a good deal. Big, bold and intense, with incredible, almost feral intensity, incense, tar and black pepper aromas and layers of inky dark fruit. A stunning wine from a stunning site, made by a gem of a winemaker. 2022-35

This Swartland property is owned by Boekenhoutskloof but run independently by gifted winemaker Callie Louw. Alive and dynamic, this soars out of the glass, a touch of firework smoke to the vibrant berry fruits. Incredible energy and elegance on the palate, great freshness and focus, tiny tensile tannins and zesty acidity. Very long, this crackles on and on. The handsome labels are produced at the estate on a vintage Heidelberg press – but don’t assume there is any style over substance here: the 2017 Porseleinberg is a truly great Syrah.