Haut Brion 2004

Although atypically delicate and light for this estate, the 2004 Haut-Brion exhibits the essence of this fabulous terroir situated in the suburbs of Pessac. Gravelly, smoky, cranberry, black cherry, and plum-like scents jump from the glass of this fresh, medium-bodied red along with notions of road tar, earth, and truffles. Stylish, with crisp acidity, it is a beautifully made, pure, long 2004 to enjoy during its first two decades of life.

An atypically high percentage of Merlot (61%) in addition to 19% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon make up the 2004 Haut-Brion. Fifty-five percent of the production was utilized for the grand vin, a surprisingly forward, charming, silky effort despite the relatively high tannin. In fact, it reminded me of the 1985 even though those vintage conditions have nothing in common with 2004 other than high yields. In any event, the 2004 is a beautiful effort that is far superior to the 2002. Soft, gentle, and gracious, with a deep plum/ruby/purple color, it offers up aromas of smoked herbs, sweet plums and black cherries, and hints of mulberries as well as earth. Medium-bodied, structured, pure, round, and seductive, with a long finish, there is more here than meets the eye and the palate. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.

Classy aromas of flowers, toasted oak and berries follow through to a full-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a long finish. Seamless.

[M 61%, CS 20%, CF 19%] Deep crimson and just slightly less blue than La Mission. More aromatic lift than La Mission but lots of rigour. Strict framework, tannins more evident than flesh. A low key wine, but then Haut-Brion is always low key. Dry rather than sweet - so unpushy as to be easy to overlook. Fine dry tannins on the finish. A bit denser than La Mission.