Regueirón Éntoma Godello, Virgen del Galir 2023

The 2023 Regueirón was still unbottled, but I tasted the final blend from foudre, ready to be bottled in August. It's their single-vineyard Godello from the village of Éntoma on slate and schist soils. The grapes were picked September 10, just before the rain, and the must fermented and matured in 500-liter oak barrels, one new and two used; then they blended the juice and put it into a 2,000-liter foudre for two months. It has 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 2.9 and 7.2 grams of acidity. This is still very young, undeveloped and somewhat marked by the oak. It's more Burgundian, with a fine texture, contained ripeness and subtle minerality, with a chalky and tasty finish. This should age nicely in bottle. They expect some 2,500 bottles and 60 magnums. 2025-2032

Godello from a single vineyard located in Éntoma. A unique 0.42-ha plot on slate soils, interplanted with a few Albariño and Treixadura vines and a slope facing south-south-east with a 40% gradient, excellent ventilation and strong sun exposure. Direct pressing. Spontaneous fermentation in three 500-litre barrels and a 600-litre stoneware ceramic vessel. Blended in 2,000-litre foudres for two months. 2,500 bottles produced.Tasted blind. Bakery notes, candied lemon, apple and grapefruit. A complex nose with hints of quince. Very attractive and inviting aromas. The palate is compact, intensely sapid and perfectly crafted. A wine of pure succulence that brings out the very best of the variety. A world-class expression of Godello.

Soft and flouncy, almost blousy, but gorgeous. The fruit has the honey-nectar delicacy of mirabelles, the sharper more robust sweetness of nectarines, a zigzag of sweet lime and the luminous cut of kiwi. A flounce of lilac. So fresh! Splashy. Camp lavishness and exuberance. Drink 2025-2029.

The flinty, smoky, minerally notes remind me a bit of Burgundy with a touch of white sesame, but the seashells, white almonds and citrus zest quickly take over. Lovely brightness and agility on the palate, with excellent concentration and a long, nervy finish. Saline and flavorful. Drink now or hold.