Amarone, Dal Forno Romano 2017

The current release. A tour de force, despite the sheer morass of palate-staining fruit. The malty oak is evident, yet operates as a welcome adjunct to corral and compress the swashbuckle of coffee grinds, beef bouillon, mint, leather varnish and saturated dark cherry liqueur, into a sheath of tension as much as sheer power. Grapes are dried for 70-80 days. This may seem obvious initially, but as one works it out in the glass and across the inner gums, the multitudinous layers become evident. A wine that shape-shifts and beguiles, as much it wrestles with the senses. Excellent. Drink or hold.

Marco Dal Forno described 2017 as a perfect vintage, until a hailstorm hit the area three days before harvest. Consequently, around 45% of production was lost. Bursting with coffee bean and cocoa aromas with a balsamic note among the blueberry and black cherry fruit, this is a delightfully smooth sip; its glossy, glycerol-rich texture carries the weight and depth of flavours perfectly. There's superb balance, ensuring the high alcohol is well hidden, and giving impressive freshness to alleviate any thought of heaviness. The mid-palate is tight, suggestive of its youth, leading to a very long, balsamic finish. Incredible. (Drink between 2023-2047)