Chenin Blanc Kameraderie, Van Loggerenberg 2022

The 2022 Kameraderie is 100% Chenin Blanc from Swartland, matured in 65% concrete and 35% used oak barrels. Van Loggerenberg mentioned that it is aimed at Chenin purists. Around 70% comes from Lammershoek and was planted in 1960. It has wonderful delineation and mineralité on the nose, vibrant and brimming with energy. The palate is well-balanced with citrus peel, orange rind and just a touch of pistachio, really saline and more-ish on the finish. One of Van Loggerenberg's best cuvées this year. (Drink between 2025-2042)

It wasn't always so, but Kameraderie is now a Paardeberg-sourced Chenin Blanc, made with grapes from two different sites on decomposed granite soils. Engagingly taut, racy and sappy, it has fennel and fynbos aromas, negligible oak influence, a backbone of steely acidity and enticing green apple and lemongrass flavours. 2024-29.

Nutty, honeycomb and slate aromas. Apple and star fruit on the palate. Expressive, classic style of Chenin with striking acidity that balances the textural palate. Moderate persistence, should be worth ageing for a few more years to develop that length.

Two-thirds of the Chenin comes from a vineyard planted in 1966 and one-third from a vineyard planted in 1978, 3 km away. Both on decomposed granite, unirrigated bush vines. 70% is vinified in concrete eggs and the rest in 500-litre French oak barrels.Smells weirdly like Furmint! Dramatically savoury with sake-like notes, marigold, sweet butter, braised fennel root. Quizzically unusual. A crescendo of flavour building into golden richness, golden figs. Such tension that it felt like it was sending an electric current down my spine. And then a pause, a heartbeat, and the wine narrows into a cool, linear, almost rectangular length – that goes on and on and on. And then a parting flurry of flowers and lemongrass. Stunning. This guy knows how to find the soul of vineyards.