Pouilly Fuissé Premier Jus, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2019

The 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Jus des Hautes des Vignes has turned out brilliantly, opening up to reveal aromas of peach, apricot, white flowers, barley sugar, clear honey, petrol and wheat toast. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's seamless and complete, with a satiny attack and huge mid-palate amplitude that's supported by incisive acids. Like is Mâcon-Pierreclos counterpart (indeed, a fortiori), it shows some of the characteristics of "passerillage," as dry, windy conditions at the end of the growing season concentrated sugars and acidities alike, delivering prodigious concentration allied with notably low pH. This is a muscular, chiseled Pouilly-Fuissé from Guffens that's reminiscent of a modern-day version of his superb 1989s.

Lovely pale green shade. There is a nice touch of reduction with a little bit of sulphur showing at this early stage, followed by some super-concentrated ripe apple notes, perfectly poised in its extra concentrated, but balanced style. There is a particularly long finish, but of course! Tasted: 7/1/2020

A cuvée composed of the free run and first press juice from Guffens's best parcels in the appellation, the 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Jus des Hautes des Vignes is showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, nutmeg, white flowers and crushed chalk. Medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's concentrated and incisive, with the broadest shoulders of these three cuvées, concluding with a long, penetrating finish.