Macon Pierreclos Tris de Chavigne, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2023

The 2023 Mâcon-Pierreclos Tris de Chavigne is one of the finest renditions of this cuvée that I've ever tasted from Jean-Marie Guffens. It's among the most expressive, too, at least at this early stage, bursting from the glass with aromas of peach and pear mingled with white flowers, beeswax, toasted almonds and honey. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it's rich but chiseled, with a bright spine of acidity, chalky structuring extract and a long, searingly mineral finish.

It's an open question whether the 2023 Mâcon-Pierreclos Tri de Chavigne or its 2020 counterpart will turn out to be superior—and given that 2020 ranks as one of Guffens's greatest vintages of the last 40 decades, that's saying something. Bursting with aromas of white peach, confit citrus and exotic fruits mingled with white flowers and toasted nuts, the 2023 appears to be the more demonstrative of the two, with a medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled palate framed by terrific structuring dry extract. Anyone who has the opportunity to buy it by the case shouldn't hesitate, as it is a classic in the making.