Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard, DuMOL 2023

A medium golden yellow color, the 2023 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard Carneros is profound and expressive of Grand Cru-like depth and elegance all the way around. In the glass, it opens with notes of smoky wet stones, flint, preserved citrus, fresh flowers, and ripe peaches. Full-bodied, it fills the palate with a satin-like texture, and it’s intense, prolonged, and exceptionally balanced, with a long-lasting finish. Simply stunning, it’s one of the best wines I’ve ever tasted from DuMOL and is as good as it gets at this tasting. It should have no problem holding up over the next two decades if stored in cool cellars. Drink: 2025-2045

Grapes for the 2023 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard were harvested on September 30. It has dynamic aromas: the candle smoke and matchstick characteristic of this site slowly unfurl to reveal lemon peel, peach, panna cotta and vanilla. The medium-bodied palate has a luxurious silkiness and tremendously concentrated flavors. It’s balanced by tense, shimmery acidity and has an epically long finish. Its seamless structural balance and site expression point to a long and compelling life in the cellar. 750 cases were made. Drink: 2028-2043

Gorgeous, voluminous, creamy and distinctive, with the signature Hyde richness tempered by a bit of restraint in texture and tempting flinty accents on the palate. Medium bodied at 13.5% alcohol, it blends power with gracefulness and good acid balance. Drinkable now, but best from 2030.