Pol Roger 2018

The 2018 Vintage is a very pretty, open-knit Champagne to drink now and over the next 10-15 years. In a vintage in which so many wines are on the lighter side, the 2018 is super-expressive, with lovely depth and impeccable balance. The 2018 can be enjoyed now, but I would prefer to cellar it for a year or two. Hints of pear, dried flowers, kirsch and mint are nicely layered on a spine of fruit and structure. Drink 2025-2030.

Magnum served at Pol Roger's 175th anniversary celebration at Oswald's in London. It took four weeks to pick all the crop (cf 10 days for the 2023).Very zesty with strong citrus notes. Still quite tight from magnum but very respectable. CEO Laurent d'Harcourt of Pol remarked that 'it had to be good after 2017' and that it was made in much bigger quantity. Much is expected of the 2019. 2024-2036.

Pale lemon with a lively and persistent mousse and an attractive nose of Spring flowers, hawthorn and apple turnover, a hint of iodine too. Subtle and not thus far betraying the warmth of a generous vintage, the wine is composed yet incisive, fresh and yet profound, with orchard fruit and a citric cut shaping the palate, and notes of verbena and sourdough in support. Expertly crafted and forthright, without indulging to excess, the 2018 is poised and confident but far from brash and with a clear potential to evolve gracefully. The wine broadens beautifully with a little time in the glass, with hints of honey and biscuit evidenced, and will do so equally impressively in bottle over the next five years and beyond. I think this would score 93-95 points, the latter number reflecting how it will evolve and improve in the short to medium term.