Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett, Weingut Willi Schaefer 2017

AP: 02 18. The 2017er Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett proves still somewhat backward and only gradually reveals shy notes of smoke, white flowers, anise, yellow peach and grapefruit, all wrapped into a hint of herbs. The wine is quite intense yet playful on the palate as beautifully zesty and ripe acidity mingles with juicy yellow fruits. Despite the intensity, this Kabinett remains superbly light and develops some stunningly complex mineral and zesty fruity flavors in the finish. This is a brilliant Kabinett in the making. 2025-2037

Amazingly concentrated for a Kabinett, but it is also cool and finely nuanced with an entire spectrum of fruit and herbal notes. Hints of smoke and flint, too. The crystalline clarity of the long finish is literally breathtaking. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Himmelreich Kabinett from Christophe Schaefer is emblematic of the entire range this year, with snappy acids giving an electric charge to absolutely beautiful fruit tones and striking minerality. The bouquet offers up a lovely blend of lime, apple, a touch of wild yeasts, salty minerality and a topnote of spring flowers. On the palate the wine is pure, medium-bdoied and filigreed, with lovely intensity of flavor, a classic sense of weightlessness, bright, ripe acids and laser-like focus on the nascently complex finish. (Drink between 2022-2055)