Chevalier Montrachet Demoiselles, Louis Jadot 2013

A highly restrained and all but mute nose requires a good 30 minutes of air to finally reveal notes of citrus, white flowers, pear and enough wood influence to merit mentioning. The cool, pure and markedly stony middle weight plus flavors possess almost painful intensity on the tension-filled, balanced and notably persistent finale. This displays all of the unequalled class that it typically does and should amply reward extended cellaring though I underscore that it is going to require at least 7 to 8 years of bottle age before it will be sufficiently civilized to merit cracking a bottle. Drink 2025+

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Demoiselle Grand Cru, bottled under DIAM, was showing a little oxidation on the nose that shaves away mineralité and terroir expression. The palate is tangy and a little chewy on the entry with hints of marmalade and orange peel. While there is satisfying weight in the mouth, it is missing some precision at the moment. The harmony here and the tension suggest that this should develop for those with the nous to age their bottles for several years. Tasted May 2016.

I love the les Demoiselles bottling at Maison Jadot and the 2013 is another fine success. The bouquet is a deep and very classy constellation of apple, pear, tangerine, complex, chalky minerality, white flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and beautifully concentrated at the core, with enormous backend energy, laser-like focus and a very long, poised and classy finish. If the Diams can hold off premox down the road, this will be a classic example of this great bottling. (Drink between 2018-2040)