Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 2017

The 2017 Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires—disgorged in 2025 with a dosage of nine grams per liter—continues to develop nicely, unfurling in the glass with aromas of almond paste, brioche and pear mingled with notes of orange oil and burnt buttered toast. Full-bodied, broad and nicely concentrated, the palate is built around a deep, generous core of fruit, complemented by ripe yet lively acidity that carries through to a long, saline finish. Darker and more concentrated than several of its immediate predecessors, it is also more structured, representing a considerable success in the context of this rain-soaked vintage, which fortunately turned dry around harvest time. Drink: 2027-2046

Pale gold. Youthful fresh aromas, biscuity notes with toasted hazelnut and grilled almond, a floral note, and a hint of linseed oil on a cricket bat. Elemental, still. The textured mousse delivers an expressive tropical citrus fruit opulence, a pure and precise fruit quality, super-fresh and elegant, but still elementally youthful; light toasty notes with shards of refreshing citrus-zesty acidity, tapering to a finely balanced, mouth-wateringly tangy dry finish.

A very precise Blanc de Millenaires with subtle aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine, stones, steel, chalk, watercress and some white peaches. Medium- to full-bodied with transparency and clarity that come through clearly and go on and on, The first year they used wine from the grand cru village of Chouilly. Complete and unique. Refined and structured at the same time. Drink or hold.

Chardonnay in the well-drained chalk soils of the Côte des Blancs performed so well in torrid 2017 that Charles Heidsieck produced only the fifth vintage of Blanc des Millénaires in 30 years, hailing predominantly from the grand cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger alongside surrounding grand and premier cru Chardonnay. With a moderate yield, some early season heat and a good retention of acidity, the 2017 is both aromatically inviting and reassuringly ageworthy. With orange citrus, jasmine, sweet toasted almond and richer pear tart flavours building, this ultra fine blanc de blancs is cut with dash of smoky, charry energy and citrus syrup length, already expressive yet bound to ramp up the nutty, toasty headiness with further time. This will prove itself one of the wines of the vintage. Drink: 2026-2040