Bollinger Spécial Cuvée N.V.

Bollinger's NV Brut Special Cuvée is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier, and the grapes are mostly (more than 85%) sourced in Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages. The majority of the Special Cuvée is reserve wines, part of which have been aged in magnums for five to 15 years. The disgorgement I tasted in May 2018 displays an intense golden-citrus color and has a refreshing, concentrated bouquet of citrus fruits, sweet cherries, ripe apples, white flowers, toast, walnuts, ripe apricots and peaches, with just a touch of brioche. On the palate, this is an intense, very elegant and refined cuvée with a very long, refreshing, intense, aromatic and salty finish. This is an excellent Champagne with a beautiful chalky texture in the aftertaste. (Tasted from lot L1711802 in May 2018.) 2018 - 2030

This wine opens with elegant, well-delineated aromas of honey, brioche, roasted nuts, orange zest, flowers and peaches, of which appear on the palate in a classy, finessed expression of the house style. This is an especially refined and delicious NV Champagne. The Special Cuvee is roughly 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier (2004, 2003) sourced from a variety of vineyards. Bollinger adds 5-10% of reserve wines (in this case from 1995 and 1996, aged in magnums) which gives this offering its lovely complexity. The dosage is 7-9 grams per liter. This is Lot: 807704, disgorged towards the end of 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012.

**Note: 60% pinot noir, 25% chardonnay, 15% pinot meunier, 9 g/l**There is lovely complexity to the distinctly yeasty nose that combines high-toned green apple, pear, white flowers and gentle citrus nuances. The clean and sleek flavors are supported by a crisply firm but fine mousse where the finish is medium dry and lingering. It's not all that often that I suggest that readers cellar NV Brut but this is an example that absolutely cries out for it. I suspect that the texture will materially change for the better (i.e. become creamier) and better depth will be in the offing as well. Put it this way: this is a perfectly good Champagne right now but with 4 to 7 years of bottle age it could be first-rate and I would suggest buying it only if you're going to cellar it for at least a few years first. Note further that my rating assumes that the wine will be cellared.

Exudes honey, with richness and a supple texture. Peach, biscuit and dried orange peel notes add complexity and the wine glides to a long, lingering aftertaste of honey and brioche. Drink now through 2010.